Emily in Aix

Monday, February 06, 2006







Last Monday I began my school routine that will stick throughout the semester. I am taking 16 hours of class in French, of course, 10 of which are required grammar/lab/speech classes. On top of those, I have a theater class (my favorite so far), a French novel class, and a politics class. As I am a new student jumping into classes that have been taught since October, it is a little hard getting used the structure here. Most classes started off with teachers handing back previous assignments and referring to previous lessons: something that might take a little getting used to. I must admit, getting up to go to class here is just as difficult for me as it is at CU, but I manage. I only have classes Monday, Tuesday and Thursday, so can't complain too much.

Thursday was a Catholic holiday called Chandeleur, the day Baby Jesus was presented in the temple 40 days after his birth. It is celebrated by a procession of the faithful holding candles blessed and lit at the church. If the candles are successfully brought home without the flame dying, prosperity and successful harvest are in the future of the holder. It is French custom to make and eat crepes on this day, as it is said that crepes were served to pilgrims along their journeys home. So, of course, we followed suit. We had a crepe party in my apartment with 6 to 8 people. On the menu: cheese crepes with tomatoes and herbes de Provence, cheese and chicken crepes with thyme (for the meat eaters) and nutella and banana crepes for dessert. It was a delicious feast. Another ritual which we adhered to is that of holding a coin while making the crepe. If one can flip the coin and the crepe at the same time and catch both while making a wish, that wish will come true. We had a few mishaps, but most of us rocked the hand eye coordination.
After a long week of classes, my first test and lots of confusion, I had a brilliant weekend. Friday was devoted to hiking Mount Sainte Victoire with a few friends. Mt. Sainte Victoire, as can be seen in the attached photos, is absolutely gorgeous. It is a large, grey, "cliffy" mountain that seems to stand alone in the middle of the flat, rolling hills of Provence. We caught the early bus at 8:45 and took a short ride through the misty country side. We arrived at our starting point about 9:00, all a little carsick from the windy mountain roads. Though worried that we hadn't packed enough clothes, as we could see our breath in the air, we trekked up the trail. Along the way, we saw lots of crosses and other religious statues. Though our goal was to make it to the top of Mt. Sainte Victoire, where there is a chapel and cross, we soon found out that we had gotten off the bus on the wrong side of the mountain. We ended up walking the length of the mountain, discovering a cave, resting for "cigarette" cookies on the edge of a cliff, and getting lost. At one point we had absolutely no idea where we were, and those less seasoned hikers actually began to pray for our safe return to flat ground. It's funny: it's times like that when true colors shine through. I learned alot about my friends. After much back and forth motion, a bit of cliffhanging and some serious rock climbing (without gear, mind you) we made it back to the trail and inquired with two French women how to reach the road in order to catch the bus back to Aix. Total time hiking: 7 hours. Sorest body part: ankles (I was wearing street Pumas with no support).
Saturday was a relaxing day, as we were all a bit weary and sore from hiking, and since we had skiing to look forward the following day. I spent my day first at the weekly market held near the Palais de Justice in the Place des Precheurs. As I've mentioned before, Aix is a market town. There are markets of some sort every day of the week. But Saturday is special: that's the day when booksellers, pottery throwers and soap makers come from all corners of Provence to sell there wares. I took many photos, though I purchased only food: a sack of sun-dried tomatoes for 2 euro, a log of goat cheese for 5, a courgette, or zucchini, for a couple centimes. After hours sifting through everything from clothing to Indian spices to bowls of lavender, two friends and I headed to a "patisserie" for cafe and chocolat chaud. I later bought free weights at the "Decathlon", an extensive and surprisingly cheap sporting goods store here in Aix. I figured 14 euro worth of free weights and the use of free hiking and running trails is a worthwhile alternative to the 220 euro gym pass offered by my school.
Sunday started early: myself and 7 other girls woke at 5 am and caught the ski bus to Vars at 6. After three hours of windy roads on the top floor of a double decker bus, we arrived at Vars. Our ski package through a local student travel agency included a great reduction on rentals: 12 euro for skis, boots and poles. For anyone who knows me, I haven't skiied since I was about 12. First stop: the bunny hill. And let me tell you how different a "bunny hill" is in the Alps as compared to Purgatory. It was actually quite steep, and I was charged with helping our three novices down as I was one of the "experienced". Pretty hilarious. Though I didn't fall all day, a few friends had some pretty severe wipeouts. After an hour of the bunny hill, two girls and I headed off on our own for the more "advanced" blue runs. We had an absolute blast. The scenery was breathtaking and I actually picked skiing up pretty fast. Though I would be horrible in comparison with my brother-in-law or my dad, I looked almost professional around my friends. Funny how things are all relative. After a long day skiing we rendez-voused at the base for "chartreuse vert" spiked hot chocolate, then caught the bus home. (Which was an hour late). Arrived back in Aix at about 9:45pm, and I was out cold in my bed by 11pm.
Now it's back to the grind of school again. A little stressful since I am also in the process of planning multiple trips: Carnaval de Venise in late February, Morocco in April and possible Corsica and Sardinia towards the end of school. Next weekend is reserved for Nice and Monte Carlo, a weekend trip preplanned (and paid for) by CEA. I can't wait. Until then...

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